Nonskid/Gelcoat Redo, Final Outcome

The Silverton nonskid and gelcoat redo is finally complete. The best way to see how this came out is probably to look at some before and after photos. As for the method used, as I said yesterday, the perimeter of the areas to be refinished had been mas...

7th July 2010.
By Ed Sherman

The Silverton nonskid and gelcoat redo is finally complete. The best way to see how this came out is probably to look at some before and after photos. As for the method used, as I said yesterday, the perimeter of the areas to be refinished had been masked off and additional protective covering added beyond the perimeter outlines to prevent any splattering of the new surface onto the original gel coat.

As for the actual application, here’s the good part….No special equipment needed here. Rather than spraying the new surface, it was rolled on with conventional paint rollers. The next trick is that the new surface is actually Awlgrip in a nice off white tan color. The nonskid grit has been thoroughly mixed in with the paint. Since in this case we are primarily trying to end up with a relatively rough surface (non-skid), the final sanding in preparation is not as critical as it would be if we were attempting to create a mirror gloss. For a high gloss, Awlgrip recommends sanding to a 280-400 grit level smoothness. In this case, 150 grit seemed to do the job.

So, first coat is using the recommended primer (Awlquick). This will be followed by two coats of the new color applied in strict accordance with the Awlgrip application instructions. Here the mix of Awlcat #3 brushing converter is quite important. Dry time between the two coats is 16 hours.

The other key factor here to insure long life and the final quality of the finish is the use limits as the multi-part paint slowly comes to full cure. At 77 degrees F and 50% relative humidity, you’re looking at 3 days until light service can be safely expected and up to 14 days for a full cure.

My recommendation is to go to the Awlgrip website (www.awlgrip.com)  and get a look at the product data sheets they provide before you even start a project of this magnitude. That said, this is really quite doable by any handy person. It’s not rocket science, if you can read and follow application directions, you can make this happen on your own boat when the time comes. So, now the before and after photos:

 Cockpit Before

Cockpit After

Deck Near Fuel Fill Before

Deck Around Fuel Fill After


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Ed Sherman

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Ed Sherman is a regular contributor to boats.com, as well as to Professional Boatbuilder and Cruising World, where he previously was electronics editor. He also is the curriculum director for the American Boat and Yacht Council. Previously, Ed was chairman of the Marine Technology Department at the New England Institute of Technology. Ed’s blog posts appear courtesy of his website, EdsBoatTips.
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