End of Boating Season Tasks And Checklists
Captain Heather Francis provides practical advice and checklists for the approaching haul out and storage season.
In the Northern Hemisphere, the beginning of storm season in August (through October)—when tropical storms and hurricanes peak in the North Atlantic and Caribbean—signals the end of the boating season is coming soon. This is as true in North America as it is in the South Pacific where the storm season runs from November through April. Whether you are hauling out for the cold winter months, or leaving your vessel in a boatyard in the tropics, it is important to prepare your boat properly for the months you are away.
We’ve hauled out and left our yacht on the hard several times for the storm season. Whether we are gone two weeks or two months, our routine is always the same because a lot of damage can occur due to inattention. Not only will spending time preparing your boat for the off season mitigate potential damage, it will also ensure that you get back out on the water as quickly as possible. Here we've compiled some practical tips and seasonal checks.
Salt Is Your Enemy
Above: A man pours fresh water on the deck of a boat to wash away saltwater. Photo via Pexels.
My first piece of advice to any sailor who is intending to leave their vessel on the hard is to be prepared to do a deep clean of the vessel to get rid of any salt residue. This includes fresh water vessels as well because sweat contains salt, as do food crumbs. Salt attracts moisture and moisture is what mould and mildew need to grow.
Topsides, sails, lines and exterior seat cushions and canvas are a good place to start. Snorkelling gear, swim suits, fishing tackle all get rinsed as well. Wet weather gear and PFDs should be washed when possible or wiped with fresh water and hung to dry in the shade if they are made of high tech fabrics or are self-inflating.
Above: Clean every surface of the boat, inside and out, at the end of every season. Photo via Gary Reich.
Down below all surfaces and compartments should be well cleaned and dried. Interior upholstery washed if possible or dried in strong sun for a day or two if covers cannot be removed. I like to wash all the sheets and towels at a proper laundromat to get rid of any salt residue that may be present from those water conserving bucket washes that happen underway. I give the galley a full wipe down, wash all the dishes, cutlery, and pots as well as empty the cupboards and wipe all storage compartments.
Don’t forget about the bilges, a thorough wash and dry below the floor boards will not only prevent dampness but give you an opportunity to check for any fuel or oil leaks that may have gone unnoticed. Last but not least, flush all the toilets with plenty of fresh water to prevent that funky stale seawater smell from invading the boat while you’re gone.
Top Tip: Busting Salt Residue
Add some white vinegar to your wash water. Vinegar cuts through salt, doesn’t leave behind a film, and is harmless to most surfaces and the environment.
Seasonal Checks: Thru-Hulls, Chainplates, Rudders & Running Gear
During a deep clean the boat is slowly turned inside out, so this is also a prime time to do seasonal checks of the thru hulls and chainplates. Exercise thru hulls and check for any rust or cracks. Inspect chainplates for leaks and bolts for rusting or stress fractures. These checks don’t take much time but can prevent a catastrophic failure down the tracks.
Above: It's most important to keep rudders and running gear free of fouling. Any significant barnacle growth on a prop will seriously hurt a boat's performance. Photo by Doug Logan.
While the boat is out of the water there is uninhibited access below the waterline making it easy to inspect the rudder for any signs of stress or damage and to test the rudder post and bearing for play. Make sure to inspect the propeller for cavitation burns, damage, and wear and check the cutlass bearing for wiggle and wear. If the vessel has keel bolts, check for rust stains or faults in the fibreglass that may indicate a hidden problem. Any anodes that have eroded more than 30% should be replaced. End of the season is also a good time to dump the anchor, clean the anchor locker, and examine the swivels and chain links for any signs of deterioration.
Tropical Tips: Check Airflow, Humidity, Hatches & Mildew
We’ve left our Newport 41, Kate, in storage in the tropics during several storm seasons and I quickly learned two things. First, it’s important to have good airflow through the boat. Some sailors like to leave de-humidifiers or aircon units plugged in. We have always opted to find a caretaker, sometimes a local friend, other times a fellow sailor, who would open the hatches on a sunny day once a week. This small amount of fresh air flowing through the cabin was enough to discourage dampness and mitigate mildew. It also meant that after storms or a particularly heavy rainfall there was someone around to check for damage or leaks.
Above: Open all hatches, windows and doors and fully air out the boat's cabins and compartments. Photo courtesy of Nordic Tugs.
Secondly, don’t skimp when it comes to the deep clean. The more fastidious you are when cleaning the boat at the end of the season, the less likely there will be a mould problem. I get into every nook, cranny, and compartment that has been used during the sailing season and I wash all clothes, linens, and equipment that has been touched. Then I make sure everything is completely dry before things get stowed away again. This takes a lot of water, energy, and time but the results speak for themselves. We have always been able to sleep on board the day that we arrive back at the boat.
Winterizing for Cold Weather: Flush With Antifreeze, Remove Water
Keeping your boat in a location where temperatures fall to near or below freezing requires special attention. Water expands as it freezes, which means that any water left in tanks, plumbing, or the engine could wreak havoc. For instance, cooling water left in an engine can crack an engine block when it freezes. A costly problem you won’t be able to see before your vessel is disabled.
Above: Changing the engine oil and running antifreeze through your engine block are only a couple of tasks you'll need to complete to prepare your inboard engine for winter. Photo via Gary Reich.
To prevent damage to engines, sanitation systems, and water tanks flush with antifreeze. This simple additive lowers the potential freezing point of water, eliminating the chances of unseen catastrophe.
Water can also be trouble above decks. A small leak that allows in rain or melting snow could become a much bigger problem when that water freezes. Literally. This is why it is common practice to encase vessels left on the hard in cold storage in a custom cover that can be reused from year to year, or in a heavy, plastic shrink wrap that is professionally applied.
It is also a good idea to remove other equipment that is not designed to withstand months of cold and disuse. Delicate electronics such as chart plotters and laptops should be taken off the boat if possible. PFDs and life rafts with pressurized inflation systems will benefit from being stored in a warmer environment while the boat is in cold storage. As well, some plastics and high tech materials tend to go brittle in extreme cold. When possible remove such items.
Storm Prep: Remove Running Rigging, Inspect Rigging, Remove Sails, Solar Panels & Exterior Canvas
Whether it is a winter white out or a tropical hurricane there is one thing that storms have in common; high winds. So, regardless where your vessel is left in the off season, it should be prepared to weather a storm.
To prevent windage, and unnecessary wear on lines, remove the running rigging. This also provides the opportunity to do a thorough inspection of the standing rigging. Keep an eye out for broken strands when inspecting the shrouds and stays, as well as any rust. Make sure turnbuckles are clean and free from corrosion and all cotter pins are intact. If you are going to be away from the boat for several weeks, it is a good idea to take photos of your running rigging before it is dismantled. This will make re-rigging next season fast and easy.
Above: Remove your halyards and check your rig. Photo via Gary Reich.
Remove the sails. Many boaters choose to leave sails in place and simply lash them down. However, I have seen many a headsail come unfurled in the shifting winds of a heavy storm. Not only does this result in a damaged sail but the violent flogging can also damage the rig. Make the effort to remove and stow sails.
Above: Check your sails over thoroughly before you pack them away for winter. Photo via Gary Reich.
Cover or remove solar panels to prevent flying debris damaging the panel or a strong gust of wind ripping them away from the boat. It is also a good idea to remove exterior canvas. This can be a balancing act between leaving enough cover up to allow for UV and rain protection and removing canvas to prevent destruction during high winds. I have always found that less is more and usually remove all the exterior canvas, leaving a tarp tied tightly over the companionway to thwart off leaks.
Leaving your yacht in storage is always a little stressful but with the right preparation and attention you can be sure that your boat will be shipshape to go sailing next season.
