There have always been choices when it comes to Personal Flotation Devices and don't let anyone tell you different. Back when I was a kid, you had your choice between those puffy, orange jobs with cotton straps that clipped in the front, or, if you were the sporty type, you could opt for those foam belts used primarily by water-skiers. For fishing, you had seat cushions that masqueraded as life vests when you slipped your arms through the vinyl straps on the side. Yep, those were the days.

The sad fact is a lot of lives were senselessly lost back in the good old days because people didn't wear life jackets or PFDs. Of course, there were excuses back then — those orange vests were bulky and uncomfortable, the foam belts gave you a rash and really didn't work and, those seat cushions were a lot better protecting your butt from the cold aluminum benches on the boat than from keeping you afloat — but with today's high-tech designs of PFDs and the many choices available, those excuses are no longer valid, which makes it even more puzzling as to why so many boaters don't use them.

Fortunately, in most places the law requires you to wear a PFD while on a personal watercraft, something for which we should all be thankful because it's been proven time and time again that PFDs save lives.

It's also not much of hardship because of the variety in PFDs today. Without much difficulty, you can find a PFD that is perfect for you, regardless of of your size, shape, riding style or budget.

The Basics

Most personal watercraft enthusiasts assume that a PFD is a PFD, regardless of style or price. And on a certain level that's true.

Every vest marketed to personal watercraft consumers is what the U.S. Coast Guard classifies as a Type III vest, meaning it was designed for relatively calm waters and it isn't required to turn an unconscious wearer face up in the event of an accident (Type I and II vests are required to do that). The Coast Guard also requires the PFD manufacturers to follow strict guidelines in the design and style of any PFD, and critical components like the straps, flotation foam and buckles must pass rigorous tests before the vest can be marketed, so in that sense, all PFDs are alike.

Also, because there are only a handful of PFD manufacturers in the world, there is a great deal of overlapping among various companies, with a number of companies using private labels on identical vests. This is particularly true of the low end, price-point vests, but there is some copying even among top-of-the-line vests.

The best example of this is the Jet Pilot's V-3 Impactor vest, the first pullover PFD on the market. Jet Pilot came up with the concept, but didn't get a patent for the design, and within a year, nearly every original equiptment manager and wetsuit company in the market had a pullover vest of its own, all of them nearly identical to Jet Pilot's.

But despite the superficial similarities among all PFDs, there are differences, and they usually show up in the quality of the various materials. On better vests, the nylon is tougher, but still feels soft and flexible, the straps are wider and stronger, and the flotation foam is soft and conforms easily to your body. On cheaper vests, the nylon is thin and crinkly, the straps are thin and the foam is stiff.

You'll also be able to notice a number of fit and finish differences between cheap, price-point vests and more expensive performance vests. On the better vests, you find things like rounded corners on the buckles to prevent scratching, tunneling for the straps under the nylon to improve the look and the absence of any loose threat or crooked stitching.

There are also differences in designs. Six years ago, about the only type of PFD you'd find in this market was the standard two or three buckle vest borrowed from the water ski market. That style is still the most prevalent. Newer models, designed specifically for riding watercraft, have proliferated in recent years. The pullover vest, which offers an extra layer of padding in the chest area and moved the straps and buckles to the side to prevent them from getting tangled in the handlebars, is the most obvious example.

Other styles include the Slippery When Wet SV-1, which is made with a stiff molded foam laminated to a neoprene vest, Jet Pilot's V-4 side-entry pullover, which has buckles on the side instead of the standard cinch straps, and a number of "flotation jackets" such as the SeaRider from Mustang Survival gear.

Most of the newer designs were created specifically for watercraft riding, with features that are unique to the watercraft market. For instance, most wetsuit specific vests have a D-clip on the front for clip-on lanyards. Watercraft PFDs also were designed for active use, like the Slippery SV-1, which features larger arm hole openings than the typical vest design and soft neoprene shoulder panels and side gussets that are more comfortable against the skin than nylon and also offer better support and fit. The closed cell foam on the front and back was used because it offers excellent impact protection, and it doesn't absorb water, giving it superior flotation. It also features a back torsion bar and the neoprene side gussets for the extra back and kidney support needed with sit-down watercraft.

Still, some other designs like the flotation jackets were meant to address a specific need, such as cold weather riding. Because the jackets provide flotation, they can be worn without a traditional life vest, offering better range of motion and a less bulky feel.

High-performance vests also differ from price point vests in their mph rating. You'll notice your PFD has a specific mph rating, usually 50, 75 or 100 mph. That means the materials, stitching and buckles were able to withstand hitting the water at 100 mph without coming apart. High performance vests typically use three or more straps and buckles, with at least two that completely encircle your body when fastened.

The Fit

Regardless of the style or design, the most important thing about any PFD is whether or not it fits, but it's often overlooked by riders. Too often, riders will wear whatever PFD is available, regardless of the size, either cinching a vest that's too large as snug as possible or loosening the straps on a vest that's too small. Unfortunately, PFDs don't work that way. A vest that too large can often be dangerous because the arm openings allow the vest to hike up above the wearers head. On the other hand, a PFD that's too small will not provide enough flotation for the wearer.

So when choosing a PFD, make sure above all that it fits. All PFDs will have a silkscreen guide inside the vest with a range of weight and chest sizes. Go first by your weight and then your chest size. When you're on the water, make sure all the straps are cinched securely to prevent the vest from hiking up in the water.

If you ride with children, make sure they a vest that fits properly. Vests for smaller children and infants should be Type IIs (which forces the child's face up when in the water), with a leg strap to prevent the vest from hiking up in the water.

Because riding is a social activity for most of us, it's a good idea to have a variety of sizes on hand whenever you go out. That way, you won't be tempted to let your mother-in-law use your XXL vest when she rides with your wife.

Maintenance

Once you have a PFD that fits in a style suited to the way you ride, you need to maintain it properly. Most of the things you need to do are pretty obvious. Make sure it's dry before you put it away, don't just let it mold away in the trunk of your car. Don't stack a lot of heavy material on it when you store it, otherwise the foam can compact permanently. Store the vest out of the sun and away from gas or oil, which can break down both the nylon and the foam. If it gets dirty, clean it because dirt can also break down the materials, as well as lead to rot and mildew.

It's also important to inspect your vest thoroughly once or twice a year to make sure it's still working properly. Tug on the shell and straps to make sure the seams are still secure, open and close the buckles a couple of times and tug on them when closed to make sure they won't slip and open, look for any tears or rips or signs of rot, and, finally, take a dip with it on to make sure it keeps you afloat in the water. If it fails any of these tests, toss it away and get a new vest. After all, it could save your life.