Besides the fact that Telegraph Harbour is one of the most conveniently located and easiest harbors in B.C.'s Gulf Islands to get to, it is also one of the most beautiful, protected. (Photos by John Lund.)

Besides the fact that Telegraph Harbour is one of the most conveniently located and easiest harbors in B.C.'s Gulf Islands to get to, it is also one of the most beautiful, protected. (Photos by John Lund.)



Whether you are traveling north or south on the Inside Passage, cruising among the Gulf Islands themselves or looking for an easy weekend destination, Telegraph Harbour, formed by the overlapping of Kuper and Thetis islands, is the Gulf Islands' cruising crossroads of choice.

Besides the fact that Telegraph Harbour is one of the most conveniently located and easiest harbors in B.C.'s Gulf Islands to get to, it is also one of the most beautiful, protected and, with two excellent marinas, friendliest destinations the islands have to offer.

Naturally, this combination of attributes makes Telegraph Harbour one of the islands' most popular spots, with more than 8,000 boats visiting each summer. While Telegraph Harbour's two marinas, Thetis Island Marina and Telegraph Harbour Marina, can get busy during the summer season, we really enjoy the crossroads environment, as it allows us to meet boaters from all over the Northwest and beyond in a gorgeous natural setting.

Get There

As the crow flies, Georgia Strait is only 4 miles away via Porlier Pass, which separates Valdes and Galiano islands. This makes Telegraph Harbour an easy stopover for those traveling the Inside Passage — but before navigating Porlier Pass, take a moment to study large-scale chart 3473. During extreme tides, currents here can reach 9 knots; therefore, time your passage to slack tide. Keep to the Galiano Island side of the pass, staying south of Black and Virago rocks.

From the south, boaters can get to Telegraph Harbour by taking the inside route north from Sidney via Sansum Narrows between Saltspring Island and Vancouver Island; this leads to Stuart Channel. From mid-channel, look for Telegraph Harbour's entrance, identifiable when Tent Island is to starboard and Bare Point, near Chemainus, lies to port. Once across the imaginary line, you can bear north and look for the Alarm Rock mark and then turn toward Kuper Island. Charts 3477, 3442 and 3443 are the most useful for navigating these waters. As you pass Preedy Harbour, home to the B.C. Ferry dock connecting Chemainus on Vancouver Island, take a moment to check out the seals sunning themselves on the surrounding rocks.

Telegraph Harbour

Mile-long Telegraph Harbour is formed by Kuper Island (an Indian reserve) on the right and Thetis Island on the left. The islands are separated by a drying channel officially called Canoe Pass but locally known as The Cut. The channel was dredged in 1905 and is passable only at high tide. As tempting as it is to take this shortcut to Trincomali Channel, do not attempt it without scouting it out first by dinghy. Chart 3477 covers the passage.

Parking

Telegraph Harbour Marina is located at the head of the bay. At low tide, pass fairly close to Thetis Island Marina's breakwater to stay in the deepest part of the bay. This is a no-wake zone. You can contact the staff at Telegraph Harbour Marina by calling on VHF 66A or (250) 246-9511. As mentioned, this is a busy harbor and reservations are recommended.

Dock attendants will welcome you to the marina's 3,000 feet of transient moorage. The wide modern docks have 15- and 30-amp power. Water use is restricted to 30 gallons per boat per day. The fuel station has gas, diesel and oils, and Wi-Fi Internet service is provided by BroadbandXpress. Nearby, you will find very tidy washrooms, showers and laundry.

Burgees by the Bay Store & Caf?, located in the main building, is colorfully decorated with hundreds of yacht club burgees strung overhead. The store sells groceries, fresh produce, dairy products, fresh baked goods, charts, books, gifts, frozen bait, tackle, fishing licenses and coffee roasted locally by Cup of Gold Coffee.

But it is the 1950s-style soda fountain cum caf? that draws us here. This is one of the few remaining places we know of where you can still indulge in thick "real" milkshakes made with hard ice cream. Then there are the monster ice cream cones, sundaes and banana splits that take two people to eat. It is also one of the places where I like to eat dessert first, and if I have room, fill up on pizza, salad, soup or a panini sandwich later.

Spread over the marina's 5 acres, you will find picnic tables, barbecues, swings, volleyball, horseshoes and shuffleboard. A large covered pavilion with a brick barbecue and electricity is ideal for private group gatherings, dinners and dances. Families with kids love this place, and so do yacht clubs and other organizations that rendezvous here.

Every Saturday from 10 a.m. to noon during the summer, there is a market on the grounds where local farmers, artists and craftspeople come to exhibit and sell their wares.

Owners Ron and Barbara Williamson (and Wily Coyote, their Welsh corgi) are originally from Friday Harbor. "When we took over ownership of Telegraph Harbour Marina six years ago, we never realized how much work it would be," Barb Williamson said. "But then, we never knew how much fun it would be either, or how many friends we would make along the way. It's been a great experience."

Thetis Island Marina & Pub

As you enter Telegraph Harbour, among the first things you'll see is Thetis Island Marina & Pub on your left. Paul Deacon, a former Canadian Forces jet-fighter pilot, has owned, operated and improved the property for the past 13 years. You can contact marina staff via VHF 66A or by calling (250) 246-3464. Reservations are recommended.

The marina has 3,000 feet of dock space with 15- and 30-amp power. The marina operates a reverse-osmosis desalinator to supply drinking water. The fuel dock has gas and diesel, and propane filling is available onshore. The north end of the marina has a float plane dock for service to and from Vancouver.

Ashore, the main building houses a pub, a restaurant, a liquor store and a general store/post office. A separate building to the rear houses showers and washrooms. There is an ATM in the pub, while the store carries groceries, gifts, books and ice.

Thetis Island Marina is the island's only pub. It has an expansive sunny patio deck with bright, colored umbrellas, offering a beautiful waterside harbor view. The pub has a full complement of imported and local beers, including a good selection of draft beers, and at least a dozen brands of Scotland's finest single malt whiskey.

The restaurant offers a full menu for lunch and dinner as well as three or four daily specials. Breakfast is continental, featuring delicious fresh-baked cinnamon brioche and coffee, tea or espresso. If you have a group, the restaurant can prepare a variety of barbecue menus for you, including its famous pig roast. The pub has live entertainment most summer weekends and is one of the Gulf Islands' leading fun spots.

The marina grounds have two horseshoe pits, swings, barbecues, a large covered picnic area, and a play area for kids and groups to get together and relax.

"We want our guests to have a relaxed and enjoyable time at Thetis Island Marina & Pub. We wish to convey an atmosphere of good food and good fun, with good friends. It seems to be working," owner Deacon said. We agree.

Anchoring

Telegraph Harbour is also a popular anchorage during the summer, with boaters dropping the hook alongside the two marinas where there is a good mud bottom, with depths ranging from about 3 feet at the head of the bay to about 40 feet farther out. Finding space can be a challenge, as private moorings take up most of the head of the bay. You should be able to find a spot farther out if you don't mind the back and forth traffic during the day.

History

Thetis Island was named after early surveyors on board the 36-gun British frigate H.M.S. Thetis, based in Victoria's Esquimalt Harbour from 1851 to 1853. The ship's commander, Capt. Augustus Kuper, left his name on neighboring Kuper Island, which is home to the Penelakut First Nation. Following the government's offer of land in 1874, the first wave of settlers purchased and arrived on Thetis Island between 1874 and 1886 to farm the land. Despite the fact that there is no commercial center on the island, there are 350 permanent residents and more summer cottage owners.

When in Telegraph Harbour

Thetis Island's rolling rural landscape beckons one to get out on the country roads and stretch the legs. Along the way, enjoy the ocean and distant island views, explore the beaches, visit a vineyard or stop into an arts and crafts gallery. In general, just enjoy the lazy feeling you get when you have time to spend and no particular place to be.

However, if you need more input, we recommend that you walk to the ferry dock at Preedy Harbour and hop on the ferry for the 15-minute ride to Chemainus, where you can view the town's many historical murals and art galleries, have lunch or catch a matinee at the Chemainus Theatre or a round of golf at Mount Brenton Golf Club.

Even if you don't venture far from the marina docks, we think you will enjoy Telegraph Harbour as the Gulf Islands' cruising crossroads — a place where you can meet fellow boaters in one of the Northwest's finest harbors.

Handy Contact Numbers

Telegraph Harbour Marina, (250) 246-9511 or VHF 66A
Thetis Island Marina & Pub, (250) 246-3464 or VHF 66A
Canada Coast Guard, VHF 16, 22 or (800) 567-5111
BC Ferries: Chemainus-Thetis Island, (250) 246-3313
Chemainus Theatre, (250) 246-9800; www.chemainustheatrefestival.ca
Mount Brenton Golf Club, (250) 246-9322