Blame the trailer. When something goes wrong while towing, that's usually what happens, though nine times out of 10, the specific trailer isn't at fault. Swaying, bad braking, a rough ride, even damage to your personal watercraft, can occur with even the best of trailers if they are loaded improperly.

The most common cause is impatience. Riders, anxious to hit the water early in the day or hit the road when the riding is done, often forget the few common sense rules of trailering.

The first and most important rule is to properly distribute the weight on your trailer. The most significant aspect of this is the forward/backward distribution of weight from your watercraft, which is the measure in tongue weight.

Too much tongue weight — meaning the weight from your watercraft is too far forward — can cause side to side swaying and excessive pressure on your hitch and coupler. Too little tongue weight can also lead to swaying and a generally rough ride all around.

Generally figure that 10 percent of the entire load on the trailer should be on on the tongue. You can measure it quite easily. Just take a bathroom scale and put it at a height level to the trailer and then rest the tongue of the loaded trailer on the scale. If the total load — the weight of the boat, fuel, any gear and the trailer — is 2,000 pounds, then the tongue weight should be 200 pounds. This can vary a bit from trailer to trailer, so check with your trailer's manufacturer.

You can adjust the tongue weight by moving your watercraft forward or backward on the trailer beds or on some trailers by adjusting the position of the axle or the tongue portion of the trailer.

However, you need to be careful to that you don't pull your watercraft too far forward or back on the bunks because that can damage your watercraft. Your bunks should be under the main section of your hull, behind the where it begins sloping up. You also don't want to much of the watercraft extending behind the bunks. Ideally, the bunks should extend past the transom.

The width of the bunks is also important, which is why you'll find that most top of the line trailers allow you to adjust the bunks from side to side. The bunks should be positioned on the strongest part of the hull, which generally is just below or inside the major strakes (if there are any). Above all, make sure the keel, intake area and ride plate are not in contact with any part of the trailer.

If you carry gear and extra fuel on the trailer, make sure it is stowed properly. Too often, we stow our gear, skis, coolers and other miscellaneous items willy nilly on the trailer, without any thought of where it should actually go. This is especially true after a long day on the water. However, all gear should be distributed evenly on the trailer, with heavier items over the axle. Also, make sure it is secured properly so it doesn't shift or blow out of the boat while you're driving.

But the trailer load isn't all you need to think about. You also need to know the weight of everything else you'll be hauling inside your vehicle. Make sure you know the gross combined weight rating (GCWR) of your tow vehicle, which can be found in your car or truck's owner's manual. The GCWR includes the weight of the tow vehicle, the trailer, the watercraft and whatever else you're bringing along, including gear and passengers. Exceeding the figure can put you in jeopardy, making it difficult to maintain control while braking or maneuvering during an emergency. It's also extremely tough on the tow vehicle. You should also know the load capacity of your trailer; exceeding it can not only damage your trailer, but your watercraft as well.

That goes both ways, too. Getting too much trailer can also be a problem because it's suspension was designed to carry a heavy load. Thus, if you're using a four-place trailer to haul around two watercraft, the two watercraft could get bounced around too much.

Another key area to look at is your trailer hitch, particularly its height. Your trailer could be loaded perfectly, but unless your trailer is level with the ground, it's all for naught. Too often, the trailer hitch and trailer don't match, with one too high or the other too low, and both situations can lead to swapping and/or a rough ride. That's why having a receiver type hitch is so convenient. If you have one, you can use a hitch shank to adjust the height of the ball to match the trailer. A receiver-type hitch not only adds versatility, it also allows you to stow the hitch in your trunk when not in use, eliminating additional exposure to the elements and saving your shins when you fill up the tank.

If you don't want to invest in a receiver hitch, make sure your trailer matches the height of the hitch already on your car or truck, but whatever you decide, make sure you use a hitch rated for the load you're going to carry. For example, the typical four-place watercraft trailers will need a Class III weight-carrying hitch, which bolts directly to the tow vehicle's frame and is designed to handle a 5,000 pound or more trailer and a tongue weight of 500 pounds. Most enthusiasts, however, can get away with a Class I hitch (2,000 pound limit) with a two-palace trailer, though if you're going to be adding a lot of gear, look into a Class II hitch. (3,500 pound capacity and 300 pound hitch). Whatever the case, make sure the hitch is attached properly to your vehicle. Attaching a ball to the holes in your truck's bumper may be convenient, but it's a recipe for disaster.

The right-sized ball is also a key, and you'd be surprised at how many people think it's perfectly okay to use a 1 7/8-inch ball with a 2-inch hitch. It isn't. In fact, it's an accident waiting to happen. The proper ball diameter is marked on the trailer's coupler.

Be careful with the coupler, the part of the trailer that hooks onto the ball. Dirt and sand can damage it, so avoid setting it on the ground. If your trailer doesn't have a built-in stand on the tongue, bring along a block of wood or a cement block to rest the tongue on when the trailer isn't hooked up.

Your trailer tires also make a big difference when towing. The key is keeping trailer's tires properly inflated. Under-inflated tires can cause premature wear from excess heat because so much of the tire is in contact with the road. Over-inflated tires wear unevenly and reduce the amount of contact with the road. Also make sure that your tires are evenly inflated because that will provide a smoother ride and reduce side-to-side sway on your trailer.

Trailer tires are typically smaller than automobile tires, meaning they spin faster and thus wear out sooner. Expect to replace your trailer tires after about 10,000 miles. The best indication of whether or not you'll need to replace your tires is tire tread. Tires with less than 1/16th of an inch tread should be replaced immediately. Also look for small cracks and bulges in the sidewalls.

These few simple steps can help ensure you arrive at your riding spot safe and sound, as well as return home without incident. After all, it usually isn't the trailer's fault when something goes wrong towing. It's usually the fault of the trailer's owner.