Welcome to Cruising Compass. The newsletter has been designed with cruisers in mind and offers all who wish to participate a forum for new ideas, personal stories, comments and more. Your contributions are welcome. Whether you sail across your local bay or around the world, Cruising Compass is for you.

Cruising Compass is brought to you by Blue Water Sailing magazine. The magazine's editors and regular authors are a rich source of knowledge and information on everything to do with boats, sailing, cruising and the world of voyaging. So, send us your questions and we will do our best to find the answers for you, which we will publish in the newsletter.

Correspondence should be e-mailed to [email protected].

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

South Pacific Cruising - What a day! What a place!


Hiva Oa is the island of smiling faces. The people of the Marquesas have been so warm and giving. A few days ago we were at a service station and a couple drove in. We started talking and soon they invited us to their home where they gave us a big piece of fresh tuna that the husband had caught. That wasn't enough. Next they went to a nearby tree and picked a bunch of limes for us and then gave us a ride back to the station!

This is not unusual. We are anchored two miles from town and as soon as we start the walk, a pickup truck stops...we climb into the back and off we go. We've never made the trip on foot the entire week we have been here! Yesterday, we walked a few hundred yards to a place that had a "Fruit for Sale" sign. We followed the jungle path, waded through a creek, passed by the owners' pigpen and when we were surrounded by their six dogs with a litter of puppies, the owners themselves came to greet us. We held our breath as we watched one climb high in the trees balancing on thin limbs to retrieve for us some pamplemousse (much like common grapefruit but sweeter). Then he gave us limes, basil and peppers and, of course, a ride back to the boat.

Bastille Day, July 14th, was a wonder! The night before and most of the next day we watched the native dances performed with great passion. The dancers were clothed in palm leaves and flowers. Large tattoos covered much of their bodies. The drums were huge and their resonant beatings vibrated our souls and rattled our teeth. As Bastille Day dawned, the dancing started at 7:30 a.m. and we were there. We couldn't miss anything. Besides, Garland heard that the Mayor provided free beer and cake for breakfast. The Mayor did just that! Heineken beer, no less! One of the hula girls grabbed Garland and made him dance in front of everyone! Such a day! Such a place!

Diana and Garland Flournoy
Cornelia Maria
Hiav Oa, Marquesas
French Polynesia

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Another Interest Rate Cut Today


The Federal Reserve Bank lowered interest rates again today for the seventh time this year. If you haven't refinanced your existing boat loan in awhile, chances are you're paying a lot more each month than you should. Check out www.boatsbank.com and see how much you can lower your payments. You can apply online, get multiple lenders to compete for your business, and get your loan approved FAST.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The Log of Mahina Tiare - Cruising Arctic Norway


As they cruise north along the west coast of Norway, John and Amanda and their expedition crew sample some of the scenery and visit the villages of the high north.

Tromsö - 69.38N, 18.47E - Barometer 1003
We have arrived in the trendy university town of Tromsö and Leg 1 of this year's expeditions is drawing to a close, with crewmembers packing bags for further destinations and adventures to Spitsbergen, Finland and warmer European cities before heading home. This three-week, 1,300-mile expedition has been a delight and the following is a summary of highlights we've experienced since leaving Bud, along with general cruising information.

Lovunden Island - 66.22N, 12.22E
The last three days we have sailed 240 miles, coastal and offshore, to just below the Arctic Circle. Lovunden's steep mountain is home to 200,000 puffins who return in the summer months to nest. We enjoyed a pleasant midnight-sun evening high on the hill and viewed hundreds of comic little puffins coming home for the night

Svartisen Glacier - 66.42N, 13.37E
Svartisen is Norway's second-largest icecap and it seemed only fitting that we should celebrate our Arctic Circle crossing with a glacial evening hike up the ice tongue that licked the grassy lowland. The following morning saw arctic initiation swims in the shadow of the glacier from hardy crew and a showy photo opportunity.

Lofoten Islands - 68.13N, 14.34E
After a short supply stop in the working harbor town of Bodo, we jumped off across the Vestfjorden for the Lofoten Wall, a 70-mile expanse of jagged glacier carved peaks stretching along the Lofoten archipelago. We spent a windless crossing practicing celestial navigation and rope work while watching the snowy wall loom closer, and arrived to the sight of small fishing villages and grassy farms fringing the towering peaks like the brim of a sombrero. The trendy fishing town Henningsvaer was our first stop, where engaging galleries and scenic walks alongside the harbor complete with open-air cod-drying racks gave us a window into the islands' charms. Time stands still and locals go about their traditional fishing, farming and home activities around the clock. Sailing a few miles farther north to the main town of Svolvaer, the tempo changed; the town was alive and bustling with its annual international blues festival, though entertainment was $25 a venue and didn't start until 11 p.m.

As a farewell to these amazing islands, we cruised the Trollfjorden, a dramatically narrow, deep fjord with glistening snowy mountains and extensive waterfalls, before sailing the last 150 miles inside scenic Senja Island to Tromsö.

Troms
We've enjoyed exploring this attractive arctic city with it's accommodating guest harbor in the middle of town. If I were asked to name a sister city I would say Hobart, Tasmania, but with a lot more snow. Cafes, galleries, outdoor markets, museums, pubs and parks spread along the waterfront and the tourist office is more than helpful with extra inquires for places to visit and boat projects to complete. As a university town and leaping-off spot for Spitsbergen, a 1-1/2 hour flight away, Tromsö has an energy akin to Ushuaia in South America, and people are out and about viewing the sights at all hours. John and I have prepped Mahina Tiare and we are now enjoying a free week of museums, Spitsbergen education, fellow cruisers, staying fit in the local pool (though they only do the breast stroke) and catching cod... I'm getting pretty good at it. Weather is perfect - chilly, but perfect. For the month of May, the barometer has remained relatively steady in the mid-1004 range, and weather systems have passed at a predictable pace. The best weatherfax information comes from Germany twice a day and is easily interpreted. We have experienced no fog and have had light winds from the south since leaving Bud.

Charts and Cruising Guides
The Norweign Cruising Guide by John Armitage provides invaluable advice and infromation for over 500 anchorages and harbors. The Norweign Pilot, Den Norske Los, is available in seven volumes, though volumes four through six do not offer English text, only Norwegian. These are excellent publications with color aerial photos and harbor plans, but they cost $40 each. Norweign charts cost $15 each, are of superb quality and available in most city bookstores. The 100-series provides terrific coverage at 1:50,000 and we have a total of 70 charts for coastal Norway with a few large-scale charts for overall trip planning. Electronic charting proved to be extremely limited and expensive, with coverage only in the south to Alesund.

Navigation
You must take a few minutes to familiarize yourself with the Norwegian buoyage system. Towers or cairns made of stones and rock piles, some of which contain pointing arms, represent the oldest system of navigation aids, while beacons, perches, sector lights, cardinal marks and buoys (13,000 in total!) add to what at first seems impossibly confusing routing in narrow channels. Bridges and power cables are numerous and heights are noted only on the charts.

Moorage

We've been amazed at how populated Norway is, and in our voyage north we have not spent one night where there have been fewer than five cabins ashore. Small harbors with guest pontoons are frequent in even the smallest towns, while cities have additional facilities. Dockside fees have averaged $8 per night while showers ($2 ) and laundry ($6 wash and dry) are available with a key deposit. Be warned that washing machines and dryers tend to take two hours per session.

Provisioning and Fuel
Grocery stores provide copious supplies that cost about 25% more than in the U.S.; fuel at approximately $2.50 U.S. per gallon is available in large towns. Foreign credit cards are often not accepted at many supermarkets and fueling stations, but ATM machines abound.

For more information on Mahina Expeditions, log onto www.mahina.com.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Cruise in comfort.


Cruising sailors deserve high performance and comfortable clothing. Check out what can make a world of difference to your disposition when you're spending days on the water. It's the Camet 3000 Sailing Shorts. They are made of fast drying Supplex and are reinforced with a Cordura seat patch, to add an optional 1/4 inch foam padding. --your butt will thank you. Check out the Camet sailing gear: www.camet.com

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

GET TWO ISSUES OF BLUE WATER SAILING FREE


Are you ready to go cruising to the far ends of the earth, or do you like cruising closer to home? Either way, Blue Water Sailing magazine is for you - if you love cruising. Every issue is filled with cruising stories, plus in-depth reviews of boats, gear and equipment. We offer sound advice on seamanship, navigation and the art and science of sailing a cruising boat. The magazine's regular contributors include circumnavigators Jimmy Cornell, Brian Hancock, Beth Leonard, and Bill Biewenga - so you can be assured that they have the experience to tell it like it is. You can have TWO ISSUES of Blue Water Sailing ABSOLUTELY FREE by logging on to www.bwsailing.com. Look for the 2 FREE ISSUES button.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

U.K. skipper cleared of manslaughter in the death of two


The report that follows raises the question of a skipper's ultimate responsibility to protect the safety of his boat and crew. Here's how the U.K. courts and officials handled the tragedy.

England
Following an accident after which a skipper was tried, twice, on manslaughter charges, the U.K. Maritime Accident Investigation Branch (MAIB) has published its report into the fatal voyage, which recommends certain safety practices (not published here) and warns other yacht captains to expect criminal charges to be filed in the case of accidents caused by negligence.

After the accident in bad weather in which two people drowned, Colin Jessey was arrested on a manslaughter charge and for failing to register a vessel under the Merchant Shipping Act. The jury failed to reach a verdict at the first trial so a retrial was ordered. At the second one, the judge directed the jury to return a verdict of not guilty on the grounds that the prosecution was unable to call expert evidence to support a gross negligence charge. Jessey was also charged for failing to register a vessel under the Merchant Shipping Act. He was found not guilty.

The fateful voyage began on 3 April, 1998, after a night of easterly gales had been blowing in sea area Tyne to create a heavy onshore swell along the Northumberland coast. A gale warning remained in force. In spite of the gale warning, Jessey decided to take his Bavaria 46 Signature to sea with nine guests in an attempt to raise money to fund his entry in the 1998/99 Around Alone race. Within three hours of sailing, the yacht had virtually pitchpoled, and three of the guests had been swept overboard. One was recovered alive, the other two drowned.

When the passengers had arrived, Jessey - with no formal qualifications - had given them a safety briefing. He also briefed them on what to do in certain emergencies, including man overboard, and showed them where the liferaft was stowed and how to use it. He showed them where to find the lifejackets and harnesses. But because Signature was not going offshore, it was Jessey's practice to provide his guests with waistcoat-type 100N (Newton) lifejackets as they were easier to put on with a zip and were warmer. He did not show anyone how to put them on. His policy for wearing foul-weather clothing, lifejackets and harnesses was that unless he directed they should be worn, the decision to do so was left to individuals.

Although easterly Force 7 or gale Force 8 warnings for sea area Tyne on 3 April had been issued at 2358 the night before and at 0505 that morning, with a Tyne Tees Coastguard broadcast transmitted at 0750, Jessey wasn't able to receive any of these. He had, instead, watched the weather forecast on television the evening before, and on the basis of that he was expecting a Force 2 or 3 with conditions set to improve further. On the 11-mile trip downstream to the harbor entrance, Jessey checked with the Harbor Master's Office and was told there was a heavy sea running. As a result, he told his guests to put on their foul-weather gear, then asked them if they wanted to continue. All voted to continue.

Heavy seas form at the entrance of the Tyne during the ebb and are particularly pronounced in northeasterly gales. The phenomenon of very steep seas is well known locally and is avoided by locals. However, Signature rode the entrance, although pitching and slamming heavily. Once outside the sea was calmer and the wind dropped. Jessey shook out the two reefs in the mainsail and set a working jib, but the effects of the heavy swell and little breeze made some of the guests feel seasick. Jessey asked if they wanted to go back in, to which they all agreed. The main was furled, the engine started and a course set for the entrance.

Jessey checked with Tyne Harbour Radio and was cleared to enter. As the yacht entered the river and passed between the pier ends it became obvious the seas were much heavier than expected. Large waves began to build astern. They began to break and, sliding down the face of one breaking wave, Signature virtually pitchpoled, twisting to port and being knocked down to starboard.

Signature went over to about 120 degrees and then came upright. Jessey had been thrown so hard against the wheel he had bent its spokes. He had also lost his glasses and couldn't see properly for a few moments. At the same time it became obvious that three people had been swept overboard. The yacht had, in the meantime, been turned through 180 degrees and was heading seawards once again.

Jessey threw a horseshoe buoy and used his hand-held VHF radio to call for assistance. Watchers on shore also alerted the rescue services and other local craft went to assist.

One of the victims was seen floating face down very shortly afterwards. While attempting to carry out the rescue, and with one of the victims holding on to a deployed Lifesling, the yacht was hit by another wave that pushed her well over to starboard. Signature recovered a second time, but the victim had let go. Together with the other two, he was now being swept out to sea.

The Tynemouth lifeboat arrived and recovered all three victims. Only one survived; the other two died from drowning. None of those washed overboard were wearing lifejackets.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

Postcard from Fernando de Noronha
(Lost? Okay, it's about 300 miles east of the Brazilian port of Natal...)


We arrived at the island of Fernando de Noronha yesterday afternoon, after an easy five-day, 700-mile passage from Salvador da Bahia, Brazil. Gary again called the weather perfectly, and we set sail within two hours of his seeing the charts and making a decision. Heading north at this time of the year can be tricky, when northeast winds can make it a long, weatherly, tacking-intensive trip. We had a southeast breeze, and were able to stay hard on the light-to-medium winds, and make our 300 miles of easting without suffering. Then, we turned north for the final run to the island. We are the only yacht at this nature reserve, which is a dramatic volcanic island of pinnacles and peaks covered in greenery, with black volcanic edges. There is a diminutive settlement, and a few tourists come by way of small plane during the season, which is now over. The anchorage is a bit open, but with our "roll control" deployed, we are comfortable.

We will stay for a week, and then head to Forteleza, Brazil, on the mainland. We have been assured by several Brazilians that "there is a 100% chance of being boarded and robbed while there." So, we are looking forward to another exciting cruising adventure. German friends were boarded twice at night there several years ago. Wolfgang sent an e-mail advising us on how to handle it: "Get a long bamboo pole. When they try to come aboard at night, you hit them with the pole." Sound advise.

We will be going ashore today, to check in and get the lay of the land. And, of course, to see if any bamboo grows on the island.

Bill Healy
Amadon Light
Brazil

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Free Guide to Sailing Adventures


In the July-August issue of Blue Water Sailing, the first annual guide to World Sailing Adventures was published as a free insert. BWS has a number of these stand-alone guides left over and will send you one Free for the asking. The 36-page guide covers bare- and crewed-boat chartering, sailing schools, offshore sailing expeditions and extreme sailing adventures. All you have to do is e-mail BWS at [email protected]. Please allow two weeks for delivery - and make sure you send your complete address!

--------------------------------------------------------------------

Send submissions for Cruising Compass to [email protected]

For advertising inquiries contact David McCreary at [email protected]