Welcome to Cruising Compass. The newsletter has been designed with cruisers in mind and offers all who wish to participate a forum for new ideas, personal stories, comments and more. Your contributions are welcome. Whether you sail across your local bay or around the world, Cruising Compass is for you.

Cruising Compass is brought to you by Blue Water Sailing magazine. The magazine's editors and regular authors are a rich source of knowledge and information on everything to do with boats, sailing, cruising and the world of voyaging. So, send us your questions and we will do our best to find the answers for you, which we will publish in the newsletter.

Correspondence should be e-mailed to [email protected].

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The Cruising Life
Passage From Fortaleza, Brazil, to Devil's Island, French Guiana.


Our departure from Fortaleza, Brazil, was one of the most uncomfortable sails we have had. The continental shelf along the north coast of Brazil stretches out 50 to 100 miles from the coast, and even more along the Amazon Basin. The southeast tradewinds and the strong Guiana Current both run parallel to the coast in the shallow water. Sailing northeast to get off the shelf quickly, put the boat beam to the short bumpy seas. It was a relief therefore, to make deep water after 10 hours. We then turned downwind, and had the run of our cruising lives.

Once sailing northwest in deep water, Neptune's gift to small boats took over in the form of a 3 to 4 knot following current. At one point the GPS showed 10.6 knots over the ground. It was a strange sensation to be moving so swiftly, while feeling as though we were going six knots. All because the sea was sailing along with us. We have been riding the conveyor belt of ocean currents for the past year, while cruising south along the African coast, across to South America, along the east coast of Brazil, and now along the north coast to French Guiana. One day we will have to go cold-turkey, and de-tox from this free ride. It was however, easy to relax and enjoy the 600-mile speed-run to an infamous set of islands.

One of the skills of navigation I have a difficulty with, is gauging the size of land areas from reading chart scales. So, it was a surprise late one afternoon as we arrived at the Iles de Salut, to see how small they are. Three tiny islets spread out like a fleur de lis, they are better known by the name of one, Ile du Diable, or Devil's Island.

We anchored out of the swell by the middle island, and took the dinghy ashore. Check in was unexpectedly informal. Unexpected, because French Guiana is a Department of France - just as Hawaii is a state of the U.S. - and, French bureaucracy normally knows no bounds. The islands are a national park, and a policeman/ranger, on temporary duty from Paris, loves talking about the history and folklore of France's most notorious prison.

Easy walks give an idea of the suffering in days past. Prison buildings from the 1800's have long been abandoned, and are being strangled and crushed by jungle vines. Leg shackles at each bunk, and solitary confinement cells without light or air, are remnants of a brutal prison life. The horror stories seem unending, but they conflict with the quiet beauty of palm trees and equatorial vegetation on volcanic outcrops in the ocean. An amusing bit, was to learn that Papillon was never imprisoned on Devil's Island, but compiled a number of prison stories to fashion a book. He did do prison time on the mainland though.

Today, Devil's Island is known as a relaxing stop for yachts sailing north from South America to the Caribbean, and as a weekend getaway for local sailors and day trippers by ferry. While putting things to right on deck for the short sail to the mainland, we were shocked to see a yacht under sail bearing down on us. A collision seemed inevitable, but at the last moment the boat rounded up, and a greeting was shouted. It was a sistership to Amadon Light, a Tashiba 40, and it was the first time the French/German couple had come across a boat similar to theirs. They were anxious to discus boat ideas, as retirement cruising was imminent. It was also their honeymoon cruise - two days at anchor in
the local paradise.

Klaus is a German rocket scientist at the European Space Center in French Guiana, and our meeting was perfectly timed. When there is a launch, the Iles de Salut are evacuated, including yachts, as they lie in the flight path where debris could fall in the event of a misfire. And, the largest Ariane rocket to date was to be sent up on the coming Wednesday. On Sunday evening we sailed into the river on the mainland at Kourou, and anchored at the local sailing club. Klaus and Florence invited us to watch the launch from a special viewing platform.

The launch was a great piece of pyrotechnics to see close up, but ended in controversy when the whole effort failed to make the correct orbit. National pride on the part of the French and German contractors came to the fore. Fingers were pointing between Paris and Berlin, as videos and computers attempted to recreate the whole attempt. Our last meeting with Klaus was as he prepared to fly to Paris for some post-game analysis/argument sessions. However, as our part in the launch was completed, we turned our attention to the rainforest, jungle, rivers, and beaches of French Guiana. What was planned as a quick stop has stretched to three weeks, as the place is much more interesting and varied than we had expected. Of course, the French restaurants have had nothing to do with the long stay.

Bill Healy
Amadon Light
French Guiana

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News from noonsite.com


Free weather service for boats cruising the South Pacific

(The following report was issued on Jimmy Cornell's excellent cruising werbsite noonsite.com where you will find cruising information, news updates and other valuable resources collected by the world's leading expert on offshore cruising.)

Bob McDavitt, who describes himself as the MetService Weather Ambassador, sends out so called weathergrams by email to boats sailing in the South Pacific. His forecasts for certain areas normally go out on Sundays and can be of great help to anyone setting off on a longer offshore passage. Sailors can log on at:
www.pangolin.co.nz/yotreps/list_manager.asp

Weathergrams are also kept at www.pangolin.co.nz/yotreps/weathergram.aspor at www.bitwrangler.com

Individualized 5 day forecasts are also offered by email or fax (if sent by fax you get the weather maps as well). This service costs $NZ50 per forecast plus any communication expenses, and $10 per 5 minutes for any extras.

Anyone interested should contact Bob McDavitt with their credit card details a few days before they intend to sail. As a member of the New Zealand Meteorological Society Bob McDavitt manages their website http://metsoc.rsnz.govt.nz which has some useful links for sailors.

Bob McDavitt, Weather Ambassador for METSERVICE
[email protected]
Phone (09) 377 4831
Fax (09) 3075993

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Get Expert Advice on Liferafts


Buying a liferaft without expert advice is a little like removing your
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your sailing and your boat. And we can help you with just about any
other safety or navigation equipment you can imagine! See it all on our
website: www.landfallnavigation.com.

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World Sailing Adventures


Expeditions for Adventurous Sailors -- Sail to the ends of the earth and back again in the company of true blue water veterans

(The following report first appeared in Blue Water Sailing's special supplement in the July-August issued called World Sailing Adventures.)

Most of us dream of sailing around Cape Horn or exploring Spitsburgen or making a long passage to New Zealand. Even veteran offshore sailors often do not get the opportunity to take their own boats so far from the beaten track. And even if we could find the time and crew, most of us in our own boats defer to the white beaches and warm climes of the tropics.

But the allure of high latitude and expedition sailing is real. Getting off the beaten track to fjords and harbors known only to the most rugged fishermen, explorers and scientists can be cruising at its very best. The sight of an Emperor penguin waddling over the ice toward the sea, the smell of a sperm whale blowing, the silent glory of a great southern albatross wheeling over the waves, these are images that live you for the rest of your life.

But how to get there?

Fortunately, there are a number of intrepid souls who have made it their lives works to offer sailing expeditions for the rest of us. The operations described below are not charter companies per se, although you do pay for the use of the boats and for the assistance and instruction that goes along with the expeditions.

The difference between a charter and an expedition is a simple. You'll find it on Pelagic skipper Skip Novak's website. If someone cooks the meals and does the dishes for you after dinner, its a charter. If you have to do it yourself, its an expedition. If you sail with one of the skippers in this section, you can count on washing dishes, standing watches, helping with all on-deck work and even getting involved in navigation and communications. You become more a paying crew than a passenger. On some of the expeditions, in-depth instruction is provided by the skipper, while on others the instruction will be only at the level required to get guests up to speed to handle the boat and galley.

Deciding which operation to sail with will be decided by the type of sailing you want, by the regions you want to cruise and by the level of instruction you are seeking.

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Mahina Expeditions


Now in its 13th year of operation, Mahina Expeditions has taken hundreds of sailors offshore in the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, has made numerous passages to Cape Horn and Antarctica and is this summer cruising north in the Atlantic to Spitzburgen. Run by John Neal and Amanda Swan-Neal, the expeditions are sailed aboard their Hallberg-Rassy 46 Mahina Tiare.

Mahina breaks their voyages up into legs - 10 this year - of between two and four weeks' duration. Unlike some expedition groups, the route sailed by Mahina Tiare has been set long in advance, as has the schedule for the legs. While guests have a choice of legs that suit their cruising ambitions, they do not have a choice about changing the itinerary.

Mahina Expeditions offers an intense, in-depth course in seamanship, navigation and offshore sailing. Each crewmember is given a curriculum and is expected to master a number of skills during the cruise. John and Amanda run classes aboard every day and provide the instruction needed for each crewmember. Sailing aboard Mahina Tiare provides sailors with a true professional preparatory course in world cruising. So it is not surprising that dozens of sailors who have sailed with John and Amanda are now out cruising the world on their own boats.

For the rest of 2001, most of the berths aboard Mahina Tiare are full, with a few exceptions. In fact, looking ahead to 2002 And 2003, berths are already beginning to fill up. But, for those who are looking for offshore sailing experience in the company of sailors who have jointly sailed more than 400,000 miles and who have a proven and useful cruising curriculum, then Mahina Expeditions makes a very good choice.

Over the next two years, Mahina Tiare will be sailing from the North Atlantic to Western Europe, then across the Atlantic to the Caribbean. Early next year, the boat will transit through the Panama Canal and make a passage to Hawaii, where it will then turn southward to the Pacific Isles and finally to New Zealand. Following a lay-over in New Zealand, the boat will undertake an extended cruise of the Pacific Isles. Fees for expeditions range from approximately $3,500 per person for a two week passage to $4,500 for a longer cruise.

Mahina Expeditions
Friday Harbor, WA
www.mahina.com
Ph: 360-378-6131

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Take advantage of boat show specials this fall -- anLower interest rates have made financing for boats a lot more affordable; with the new boatsbank program, brought to you by our friends at boats.com, it's also gotten a lot easier. You can apply online, get multiple lenders to compete for your business, and get your loan approved FAST. There's a call center for help, a wide range of financing options, and very competitive rates. www.boatsbank.com

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Pelagic Expeditions


Based at the tip of South America, Skip Novak's Pelagic Expeditions takes high latitude sailing to the extreme by offering a range of expeditions throughout the deep South Atlantic and Antarctica. A veteran Whitbread/Volvo sailor and a co-skipper of TheRace's second place finisher Innovation Explorer, Novak has more ice cold seawater in his sea boots than just about any one.

Pelagic Expeditions is run aboard his 52-foot steel sloop Pelagic. Rugged, seaworthy, immensely strong, Pelagic is not a Bristol-fashion charter boat with acres of teak and sun awnings but a purpose-built work horse for high-latitude exploration that is also snug and comfortable below.

Novak runs Pelagic primarily as a expedition vessel for groups who want support for scientific research, filming, extreme mountain climbing and skiing. But he will also take groups of "tourists" who are seeking a real adventure. Pelagic can accommodate six guests, although four or five are the usual number for a cruise.

The cruising options provided by Pelagic are nothing short of extreme. Novak can take parties to the remote regions of Pategonia, the Chilean Channels and the surrounding islands. But, his specialty is sailing to the Antarctic Peninsula, the Falkland Islands or the remote islands of South Georgia. An expedition to Antarctica is a serious undertaking that requires a commitment of four to five weeks. Should you decide to sail all the way out to South Georgia, one of the world's richest and most interesting wildlife preserves, you will sail 2,000 miles round trip in the Roaring Forties and then spend up to three weeks exploring a land few people have ever seen - and one many have not heard of!

Pelagic Expeditions does not have a curriculum for teaching seamanship, navigation and cruising skills, but does expect guests to take an active part in the running of the vessel and does instruct guests on all aspects of practical seamanship and boat handling as necessary. Novak expects those sailing with him to be open to a certain level of uncertainty and danger and to be willing adventurers. He notes in his literature that should you be looking for a full service charter with buffet meals and someone to change your sheets, he will be happy to refer you to one of the cruise lines that operates in the region. Costs for an expedition on Pelagic run $1,750 per day, regardless of the size of the party.

Pelagic Expeditions
Pategonia and Hants, England
www.pelagic.com
44-1963-862-361

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Orange Coast College - Alaska Eagle Program


Orange Coast College in Newport, Calif., runs a successful sailing program from its base on Newport Harbor that has introduced hundreds of sailors to the art and science of sailing. The flag ship of the operation is the ex-Whitbread boat Alaska Eagle which the sailing program uses for high-seas sail training and expeditions to some of the Pacific's remotest and most wonderful cruising areas.

Run by Brad Avery, the OCC sailing program this year will be sending Alaska Eagle deep into the South Pacific, with stops in Polynesia, Easter Island, Chile and then Patagonia. Late in the year and early next year, the boat will make two trips to the Antarctic Peninsula before turning north again.

The Alaska Eagle operation combines adventure sailing with onboard instruction aimed at helping sailors become blue water passagemakers. Although the curriculum is not as intense as you will find aboard John Neal's Mahina Tiare, sailors who have completed a voyage with Alaska Eagle will have learned the basics of offshore seamanship, navigation, communication and mush more.

Although the Alaska Eagle cruise for 2001 and 2002 is mostly booked, there are opportunities for sailors to join the adventure later on in the schedule. Costs per person run from $2,300 for a tropical cruise of Polynesia to $6,000 for the 24-day passage to Antarctica and back.

The Eagle program also runs an excellent series of shorted passages and tailored programs which will resume when the boat re-appears in California next year. Among the most popular of the shorter programs has been the all-women's cruises hosted by such veteran sailors as Barbara Merritt, Karen Prileaux and sailmaker Carol Hasse.

Orange Coast College Sailing
Newport Beach, CA
www.occsailing.com
904-645-9412

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Offshore Sailing Opportunities
Swan Sailing Expeditions


A relatively new operation offering offshore sailing expeditions is Hank Schmitt's Swan Sailing program. Schmitt is the founder of Offshore Passage Opportunities, which is a membership organization that specializes in putting its members in touch with skippers who are in need of crew. OPO now has nearly a thousand members many of who get away on an extended cruise every year. Schmitt is also an experienced delivery skipper who has made many trips between the East Coast and the Caribbean and has made several transatlantic runs.

Swan Sailing started operation in 2000 when Schmitt secured several of the boats in the Swan Charter fleet for delivery from Newport, R.I. to St, Martin in the West Indies for the winter charter season. Hiring experienced skippers who are also natural educators, Schmitt has created a fleet based expedition that takes participants on ocean passages from Newport to Bermuda and then on to the Caribbean. Swan Sailing teaches guests seamanship, boat handling, sail trim and navigation and this year will supply a printed curriculum. In the spring, the boats make the return passage from the Caribbean to Newport with Swan Sailing crew aboard.

A great way to get some salt water in your boots in a relative short time span, participating in a Swan Sailing requires only about three weeks of your time and costs $2,065 per person. But although the voyage is relative short and close to home, don't be fooled. The North Atlantic in fall and spring can dish up some interesting weather that will hone you weather forecasting skills and build seamanship.

Offshore Passage Opportunities
Swan Sailing
Halesite, NY
www.sailopo.com
800-4PA-SSAG(E)

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AR Seiz Avel


Meaning "On Seven Winds" in the Breton dialect of France, AR Seiz Avel is the name of the 42-foot sloop that has, since 1989, been circling the planet with paying crew aboard. Skippered by Paul Mulder, the vessel is a custom design that was built in 1975.

The program offered by Mulder has been tailored specifically to the needs of skippers and crews who are preparing to sail their own boats over the horizon. During the passages, Mulder instructs the crew on all aspects of high seas sailing from seamanship and boat handling to navigation, communications and boat keeping.

For 2001 and 2002 the boat is sailing west in the trade winds, starting from New Zealand in May and then traveling with the seasons to Australia, the Indian Ocean, South Africa, South America and the Caribbean and then on the U.S. East Coast. Guests are invited to join the boat for one or more of the legs, depending on their time and budget constraints.

One of the appealing aspects of the AR Seiz Avel program is that the boat is similar in size and type to the boats many prospective cruisers own or will be buying for their own cruises. The lessons they learn from Mulder, therefore, can be transferred readily to their own boats. The expeditions are priced by the led of the voyage and cozy between $1,900 and $2,900 per person, depending on the duration of the leg.

AR Seiz Avel
Vancouver, BC
www.arseizavelsailing.com
604-984-3370.

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Free Guide to Sailing Adventures


In the July-August issue of Blue Water Sailing, the first annual guide to World Sailing Adventures was published as a free insert. BWS has some of these guides left over and will send you one Free for the asking. The 36-page guide covers bare and crewed boat chartering, sailing schools, offshore sailing expeditions and extreme sailing adventures. All you have to do is e-mail BWS at [email protected]. Please allow two weeks for delivery - and make sure you send your complete address!

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GET TWO ISSUES OF BLUE WATER SAILING FREE


Are you ready to go cruising to the far ends of the earth or do you like cruising closer to home? Either way, Blue Water Sailing magazine is for you - if you love cruising. Every issue is filled with cruising stories, in-depth reviews of boats, gear and equipment. We offer sound advice on seamanship, navigation and the art and science of sailing a cruising boat. The magazine's regular contributors include circumnavigators Jimmy Cornell, Brian Hancock, Beth Leonard, and Bill Beiwenga - so you know they have the experience to tell it like it is. You can have TWO ISSUES of Blue Water Sailing ABSOLUTELY FREE by logging on to www.bwsailing.com. Look for the 2 FREE ISSUES button.

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